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Varese, settore moda in sofferenza

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VARESE – Alla chiusura della “settimana della moda” milanese, la Camera di Commercio di Varese analizza lo stato di un settore, quale l’abbigliamento, che da sempre connota il sistema economico provinciale. L’analisi condotta dall’Ufficio Studi e Statistica su dati del Registro Imprese nell’arco del quinquennio 2008-13 mette in luce un comparto che, se conserva marchi attrattivi a livello internazionale, vive comunque uno stato di sofferenza complessiva. Così, nel periodo preso in considerazione, l’occupazione ha subito un pesante ridimensionamento, perdendo 1.500 addetti: attualmente sono 4.655 (-25% rispetto al 2008). Lo stesso vale per il numero delle imprese, calato del 19% e attualmente attestato a quota 845 unità locali.

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La moda-abbigliamento resta comunque una peculiarità del territorio: considerando come indicatore quota 100 su base regionale, in provincia di Varese ci sono 138 addetti. Un indice che, seppur inferiore a quello pari a 235 del tessile in senso stretto (filati e tessuti), conferma la concentrazione tuttora caratterizzante sul nostro territorio un distretto che sta resistendo con forza e determinazione alla crisi. Così, considerando i dati regionali, con il 10% complessivo delle imprese lombarde il settore moda-abbigliamento di Varese si colloca dietro soltanto a Milano (31%) e Brescia (15,5%), ma davanti a Bergamo (9,4%) e Como (6,6%).

«Nel contesto più ampio del settore tessile in senso lato – sottolinea il presidente della Camera di Commercio Renato Scapolan – quello della moda-abbigliamento è un comparto che, per sua natura, appare maggiormente esposto alle dinamiche della globalizzazione. Qui contano soprattutto le capacità di essere propositivi e di intercettare, stagione dopo stagione, le esigenze dei consumatori. Doti e qualità che indubbiamente appartengono alle nostre imprese, che proprio su queste competenze hanno saputo costruire la propria competitività sui diversi mercati dove operano».

Entrando nel dettaglio del dossier pubblicato su OsserVa, portale statistico della Camera di Commercio, scopriamo che nell’ambito del distretto “Confezioni – Abbigliamento” (questa la dizione ufficiale, così come da riconoscimento di Regione Lombardia), l’area territoriale più rilevante in provincia di Varese resta quella del Gallaratese, con comuni quali Carnago, Golasecca e Sumirago dove, su cento addetti, circa quindici sono impiegati in aziende che si dedicano proprio a questo genere di produzione. Un settore che, sebbene tuttora artigiano al 60% del numero delle imprese, sta sempre più concentrando la propria competitività su alcuni marchi capaci di penetrare sui mercati internazionali: basti pensare che le prime cinque imprese per fatturato assommano ben il 60,2% del dato complessivo delle aziende di confezioni che hanno l’obbligo di deposito dei bilanci. Quali sono allora queste top 5? Al primo posto per fatturato c’è la varesina Maglificio Dama, che si caratterizza per il marchio Paul & Shark. A seguire il gruppo gallaratese Inticom, che ha sviluppato il marchio dell’intimo Yamamay e quello dell’abbigliamento sportivo Jaked. A seguire altre eccellenze del territorio come Preca-Brummel, Missoni e Samsonite.

Tutte imprese che, con i loro diversi marchi, risultano molto apprezzate sui mercati di tutto il mondo, anche su quelli di recente sviluppo. Così dei 300 milioni di fatturato generato all’estero complessivamente dalle imprese varesine, 25 milioni sono frutto di vendite in Russia, 16 milioni in Cina e altrettanti a Hong Kong mentre 11 sono il risultato dell’operatività negli Emirati Arabi Uniti. Un settore capace quindi di essere protagonista nelle economie emergenti del mondo.

(foto archivio)

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